Full-fashioned knot fabric and method and apparatus for the production thereof

ABSTRACT

Full-fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each outermost stitch of the narrowed edge consisting of a second yarn of substantially lesser denier than the denier of a first yarn of which the other stitches are comprised and the second yarn is a stretch yarn of the twist type having high stretch and rapid recovery.

waited States atent 1 Mutze et al.

[451 Sept. 18,1973

VEB Wirltmaschinenhau, Karl-Marx-Stadt, Germany Filed: Dec. 28, 1970 Appl. No.: 101,929

Assignee:

Foreign Application Priority Data June 15, 1970 Italy 51414 A/7O US. Cl. 66/189, 66/202 Int. Cl D041) 7/00 Field of Search 66/178, 202, 189,

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2/1960 7 Urlaub 66/178 X 3,068,675 12/1962 Payne 66/178 X 2,706,389 4/1955 Garrow et al 66/189 X 2,296,590 9/1942 Badders et al. 66/189 X 3,270,526 9/1966 Stack et al 66/202 X 2,030,697 2/1936 Friedmann 66/128 2,112,610 3/1938 Sherman 66/127 2,145,023 1/1939 Bitzer 66/129 2,195,978 4/1940 Thierfelder..... 66/129 2,301,469 l1/l942 Smetana 66/189 Primary ExaminerRonald Feldbaum Attorney-Nolte and Nolte 5 7] ABSTRACT Full-fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each outermost stitch of the narrowed edge consisting of a second yarn of substantially lesser denier than the denier of a first yarn of which the other stitches are comprised and the second yarn is a stretch yarn of the twist type having high stretch and rapid recovery.

5 Claims, 10 Drawing Figures Patented Sept. 18, 1973 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 .6 EmR S E Zn TAL HH NM R m E 0 Wm W HT ,n A ul I EU M HGK H Y B Patented Sept. 18, 1973 3,159,070

3 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTORS HEINZ MUTZE GERHARD BARTH KURT PFULLER BY 7 i 7% ATTORNEYS Patented Sept. 18, 1973 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 \Y// ///IZ:

INVENTORS HEINZ MUTZE GERHARD BARTH KURT PFULLER BY W11 77% ATTORNEYS FULL-FASHIONED KNOT FABRIC AND METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR THE PRODUCTION THEREOF The invention relates to a full-fashioned hoisery or knit material as well as a method and a device for the production thereof.

It is known how to reduce the number of wales of a knitted material by transferring the last stitch of a wale to be closed off to a closely adjacent needle which participates in the further stitch formation in the following course. With this method, absolutely run-resistant edges can be produced. The disadvantage of this method is that additional transfer tools and additional transfer movements of the stitch-forming elements are necessary, which do not permit simultaneous stitch formation. In practice this has a considerable effect on the manufacturing costs of a machine, and it reduces the actual output.

To remedy these shortcomings, it has already been tried simply to cast off the marginal stitches by reducing the zone in which the base yarn is supplied. In order that the marginal stitches would not unravel, there were introduced auxiliary yarns, which were laid around the iieedles in the-lock-in plane and were cast off with the others in the following course. Thereby the loops of the last stitch were enveloped by the auxiliary yarn so that in the subsequent casting off of the marginal stitch a run inhibition occured. Thismethod has several disadvantages which have heretofore prevented its practical realization. If the marginal stitch is enveloped completely, the complicated movement of the lay-over yarn guide causes a reduction of production. If one passes the lay-over yarn guide only partially around the needle, the marginal stitches will be enveloped only on one side, resulting in an insufficient run inhibition.

An object of the invention is to produce a fabric with a sufficiently secured narrowed lateral edge, without having to hinder or interrupt the knitting operation.

A more specific object of the invention is to provide a method and a device which renders possible, with the use of an auxiliary yarn, a secure attachment of the cast-off marginal stitches without additional movement of the stitch-forming elements.

According to the invention, the foregoing objects are attained by providing an auxiliary yarn which is substantially thinner than the base yarn, is a stretch yarn of the twist type having high stretch and rapid recovery, and is formed into stitches, at least the cast-off marginal stitch consisting only of the auxiliary yarn. The denier of the auxiliary yarn preferably is no greater than about 30 percent the denier of the base yarn.

The auxiliary yarn consists advantageously of thermoplastically deformable synthetic fibers, which are fixed in the twisted state and are processed almost without twist. The auxiliary yarn is supplied advantageously in each course to at least two needles, of'which at least one forms into a stitch only the auxiliary yarn, and at least one additional needle forms into a stitch the auxiliary yarn and tliebase yarn, the position of the stitches containing the auxiliary yarn relative to the marginal stitch of the base yarn remaining fundamentally the same.

Especially favorable conditions with respect to runresistance result when whichever is the last base yarn stitch of a wale is bound off by at least two successive stitches of the auxiliary yarn. This fabric is produced according to the invention by supplying the base yarn for loop sinking to a variable number of needles and one auxiliary yarn per fabric edge to at least one needle externally directly adjacent the needles occupied by the base yarn, and by shifting at least the outer limit of the auxiliary yarn guide path parallel to the fabric, edge of the fabric piece formed by the base yarn.

The number of needles occupied by the auxiliary yarn preferably is four, of which the two outer needles are occupied only by the auxiliary yarn and the two inner needles by the auxiliary yarn and the base yarn.

The device for carrying out this method on flat-bed knitting machines consists of one auxiliary yarn guide for each fabric edge, for which yarn guide is provided a drive device for yarn laying movement of the guide in the movement direction of the base yarn guide over at least two needle divisions and for each fabric edge a shift device for the displacement of the auxiliary yarn guide path. The shift devices are advantageously coupled with limiting stops for the base yarn guide and are actuatable during the cast-off movement of the needle bar in both shift directions. The auxiliary yarn guide bars are advantageously driven through forcetransmitting means. The movement shift and the variation of the auxiliary yarn guide path can then be effected by stops arranged at the limiting stops for the base yarn guide, with the option that at least the outer stop is adjustable relative to the stop of the base yarn guide.

A primary advantage of the resultant fabric is that the narrowed side edges are sufficiently secured against stitch running, do not form loops, and are only immaterially thicker as compared with the other fabric parts and thicker over only a narrow zone.

The method has the advantage that with little additional cost for yarn and with high productivity fullfashioned fabric can be produced. The device for the execution of the method on flat-bed knitting machines makes it possible to dispense with-the narrowing device and increases the efiective full-fashioned fabric output of flat-bed knitting machines up to 50 percent, depending on the form of the fabric pieces.

Another advantage as compared with narrowing with stitch transfer is that with the method of the invention fabric pieces of any desired form can be produced at high productivity and without major expenditure on the machine.

The invention will be further described below with reference to certain preferred specific embodiments thereof, as illustrated in the drawings, in which:

FIGS. 1 to 4 are schematic representations of several variants of narrowed fabric pieces according to the invention;

FIGS. 5 and 6 are approximately exact illustrations of two-narrowed fabric pieces according-to the invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic illustration of the yarnlguide control for the execution of the method of the inven-' tion; I

FIG. 8 is a schematic front elevation of thedrive device according to the invention for the yarn guide on a ity that such similar material be produced on other knitting machines, eg on knit-knit flat-bed knitting machines or on flat or circular knitting machines of any kind.

The knit material is formed from the base yarn l, which advantageously consists of a plurality of continuous filaments. At each marginal zone, an auxiliary yarn 2 is worked in, which is substantially thinner than the base yarn l and is a stretch yarn of the twist type having high stretch and rapid recovery. The auxiliary yarn may be composed of several individual continuous filaments, which are thermoplastically fixed at different degrees of twist and are combined almost without twist. These yarns have the property that, when not substantially tensioned, they assume a crimped configuration. This property of the auxiliary yarn 2 is now utilized for binding off the cast off marginal stitches 3 of a knit fabric produced from a thicker base yarn 1.

This effect is assisted by the fact that the base yarn l, in particular in the production of outer garments, is much stiffer and less elastic than the auxiliary yarn 2. Owing to this, in the stitches consisting only of auxiliary yarn 2, other stretch conditions exist than in the stitches which contain the base yarn 1.

By the tendency of the auxiliary yarn to contort upon relaxation, also individual filaments of the base yarn are seized by the other and retained, thereby increasing the run inhibition. The marginal stitches 4 formed from the auxiliary yarn 2 are hardly visible because of its relatively fine denier and its crimp. Also in stitches 5, which the auxiliary yarn 2 forms jointly with the base yarn 1, a perceptible variation of the structure and density of the fabric does not occur. The auxiliary yarn 2 can be supplied in almost any zone, if it is assured that at least the cast-off stitches 4 consist only of the auxiliary yarn 2.

The auxiliary yarn 2 alone may be formed into stitches (FIG. 1). To obtain an effective intertwining of the stitches 4 of the auxiliary yarn 2, it is advantageous that each last stitch 3 and 5 of the base yarn 1 be bound off by at least two stitches 4 of the auxiliary yarn 2. The intertwining of the stitches is then sufficient under all strains and stresses occuring in the processing and use of the fabric, especially since these lateral edges of the fabric are not freely exposed because the edges tend to roll in and frequently the edge becomes a seam of a garment incorporating the fabric piece.

Alternatively, the auxiliary yarn 2 may form one stitch jointly with the base yarn l and one stitch alone (FIG. 2).

Here the same effect occurs as in the first case (FIG. 1). This effect is illustrated in FIG. 6. The auxiliary yarn 2 contracts in the stitches 5 just as if it were knitted alone and thus forms tightly bound castoff stitches 4.

In FIG. 3, the auxiliary yarn 2 is incorporated in four stitches. Of these, two stitches 5 consist of the auxiliary yarn 2 and the base yarn l and two stitches 4 consist only of auxiliary yarn 2. The effect in one needle narrowing is illustrated in FIG. 5. Owing to the fact that the last stitch 5 incorporating the base yarn 1 is followed by at least two more stitches 4 of the auxiliary yarn 2, the base yarn l of stitch 5 is enveloped on both sides, so that also the spreading of stitch 5 after the casting off is counteracted.

The narrowing ofa garment part 6 (FIG. 10) requires as a rule the casting off of different stitch numbers in any sequence. The method of the invention permits narrowing in practically any desired form. It is possible to cast off in any desired course on each side one to three stitches consisting solely of the auxiliary yarn. It is necessary to make the path of auxiliary yarn guides 8 and 9 variable, if it is desired that the number of stitches 4 following the last stitch 5 incorporating the base yarn 1 always remain the same.

In FIG. 7, the base yarn guide 7 and its movement course is marked by a solid line. The auxiliary yarn guides 8 and 9 are indicated by the circle 8 and the double circle 9, respectively, and their movement courses by broken lines and dash-dot lines, respectively. Double lines indicate the movement courses of the yarn guides 7, 8 and 9 for casting ofi stitches.

The positions of the yarn guides illustrated on planes 10, 12 and 14 are occupied each time after the knitting of one course. In the planes ll, 13 and 15 the yarn guides 7, 8 and 9 are in the positions which they occupy after the casting off of the stitches and before the start of the knitting of the following course. Plane 10 shows the starting position of the yarn guides 7, 8 and 9. During the casting off of the stitches all the yarn guides 7, 8 and 9 are switched inwardly, for example by one division, and then are in the positions of plane 11. At the subsequent yarn laying for sinking the loops, advantageously movement of all yarn guides 7, 8 and 9 starts simultaneously and the guides attain the positions in plane 12.

The yarn guides 7, 8 and 9 have again reached their new starting position and the process could repeat in the same manner in the following or in one of the next courses. In FIG. 7, however, a transition to two-needle narrowing is provided between plane 12 and plane 13. To effect in these cases the binding off of the marginal stitches on both sides in the same manner, it is necessary, for one thing, to vary the auxiliary yarn guide path and possibly also to displace the limiting stops of the auxiliary yarn guides 8 and 9 at least at the outer edge, which define the end points of traverse of the yarn guides 8 and 9, relative to the limiting stop of the base yarn guide 7. Thus, for example, the auxiliary yarn guide 9 is displaced during the casting off of the second course by only one division, while the auxiliary yarn guide 8 and the base yarn guide 7 are displaced by two divisions (plane 13). Subsequently the stroke of the auxiliary yarn guides 8 and 9 is increased either by means of the drive or by shifting the limiting stops, for example by one division (see position of yarn guides in plane 14).

The device for the drive of the auxiliary yarn guide rails 16 and 17 consists of a respective cam 18 or 19 and a respective slide 20 or 21 for each, the slides 20 and 21 being driven by a rocking rail 22. The earns 18 and 19 are advantageously fastened to the auxiliary yarn'guide rails 16 and 17, respectively, for transmission of force. For varying and shifting the movement of the auxiliary yam guides 8 and 9 there are provided at each limiting stop 23 and 24 for the base yarn guide 7 two stops 25, 26 and 27,28 for the auxiliary yarn guide rails 16 and 17, respectively, of which at least the stops 26 and 28 for the outer delimitation are adjustable.

It is intended that the invention encompass not only the foregoing illustrative embodiments but all variations and modifications thereof within the scope of the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

l. A full fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each cause of said fabric at the wale adjacent the narrowed edge being comprised adjacent said narrowed edge of a stitch, a base yarn of a given denier and a stitch of an auxiliary stretch yarn of twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of a substantially lesser denier than said given denier, said courses having marginal stitches formed solely of said auxiliary yarn and wales inwardly of said marginal stitches in which stitches of said base yarn are bound off by stitches of said auxiliary yarn, the outermost stitch in each course being formed by the passage of the auxiliary yarn through the loop of the stitch located in the same wale of the preceding course to form a marginal loop, said fabric being formed without the passage of other yarns through said marginal loops, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge.

2. Full-fashioned knit fabric according to claim 1, in which at least each next outermost stitch consists of both of said yarns.

3. Full-fashioned knit fabric according to claim 8, in which at least each next outermost stitch consists of said yarn of substantially lesser denier.

4. A full fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each course of said fabric at the wale adjacent the narrowed edge being comprised in adjacent said narrowed edge of a stitch of a base yarn of a given denier and a stitch of an auxiliary stretch yarn of the twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of substantially lesser denier than said given denier, each of said courses comprising a stitch of said auxiliary yarn, the outermost stitches being comprised solely of stitches of said auxiliary yarn, said outermost stitch in each course being formed by the passage of the auxiliary yarn through the loop of the stitch located in the same wale of a preceding course to form a marginal loop, said fabric being formed without the passage of other yarns through said marginal loop, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge.

5. [n a full fashioned knit fabric having a plurality of adjacent courses of stitches, and the ends of the courses define a narrowed edge; the improvement wherein said fabric is comprised of a base yarn of a given denier and an auxiliary stretch yarn of twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of substantially lesser denier than said given denier, said auxiliary yarn forming the sole yarn of marginal stitches at said narrowed edge and being interknit with said base yarn in stitches of said courses inwardly of said marginal stitches, said stitches in said courses being comprised of marginal loops formed by the passage of said auxiliary yarn through loops of the stitches of the corresponding wales of adjacent courses and without other yarns passing through said marginal loops, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge.

UNITED STATES PATALTT OFFICE CERTIFICATE 0F CQ'RRECTEQN I Patent: No. 3 r I Dated September 18 1973 1 gntor 3 He'nz Mutze, Gerhard Barth and Kurt Pfuller It is rtificd that error appears in the above-identified patent and that earn Letters Patent. are hereby corrected as shown below:

F u II I Column 5, llne 2, change cause to --course-;

lines 3 and 4, delete "adjacent said narrowed edge";

line 4, after "stitch" delete the co'mma'and add line 2'4 change "8" to --l--;

llnes 28 and 29, delete "adjacent said narrowed edge".

Signed and sealed this 9th day of April 197L (SEAL) Attest;

EDWARD N..FLETCHEH,JR. G. MARSHALL DANN I Attesting Officer- Gommissioner of Patent s 

1. A full fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each cause of said fabric at the wale adjacent the narrowed edge being comprised adjacent said narrowed edge of a stitch, a base yarn of a given denier and a stitch of an auxiliary stretch yarn of twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of a substantially lesser denier than said given denier, said courses having marginal stitches formed solely of said auxiliary yarn and wales inwardly of said marginal stitches in which stitches of said base yarn are bound off by stitches of said auxiliary yarn, the outermost stitch in each course being formed by the passage of the auxiliary yarn through the loop of the stitch located in the same wale of the preceding course to form a marginal loop, said fabric being formed without the passage of other yarns through said marginal loops, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge.
 2. Full-fashioned knit fabric according to claim 1, in which at least each next outermost stitch consists of both of said yarns.
 3. Full-fashioned knit fabric according to claim 8, in which at least each next outermost stitch consists of said yarn of substantially lesser denier.
 4. A full fashioned knit fabric having a narrowed edge, each course of said fabric at the wale adjacent the narrowed edge being comprised in adjacent said narrowed edge of a stitch of a base yarn of a given denier and a stitch of an auxiliary stretch yarn of the twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of substantially lesser denier than said given denier, each of said courses comprising a stitch of said auxiliary yarn, the outermost stitches being comprised solely of stitches of said auxiliary yarn, said outermost stitch in each course being formed by the passage of the auxiliary yarn through the loop of the stitch located in the same wale of a preceding course to form a marginal loop, said fabric being formed without the passage of other yarns through said marginal loop, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge.
 5. In a full fashioned knit fabric having a plurality of adjacent courses of stitches, and the ends of the courses define a narrowed edge; the improvement wherein said fabric is comprised of a base yarn of a given denier and an auxiliary stretch yarn of twist type having high strength and rapid recovery and of substantially lesser denier than said given denier, said auxiliary yarn forming the sole yarn of marginal stitches at said narrowed edge and being interknit with said base yarn in stitches of said courses inwardly of said marginal stitches, said stitches in said courses being comprised of marginal loops formed by the passage of said auxiliary yarn through loops of the stitches of the corresponding wales of adjacent courses and without other yarns passing through said marginal loops, the auxiliary yarn in the fabric being in a crimped configuration and the outermost stitch in each course being intertwined with and seizing the next outermost stitch, whereby said auxiliary yarn binds the stitches in the narrowed edge. 